haha
neat
Posted by renesis at 20:03 | permalink | 0 comments
lordpil's blog
urmom is:
250psi chinese air compressor
wat
stuff fits together all blocky with no lines
or wat
pics
Posted by renesis at 19:57 | permalink | 0 comments
in fact this is perfect for an soic8 avr
4 pins for controlling the fets, 2 pins for dir and analog/pwm input
Posted by renesis at 18:43 | permalink | 0 comments
dx^: http://www.darkertechnologies.com/image/egtl79_MOD.png
that does level shifting for the nch side
and then handles the inversion for the pch side
i would drive it with 4 channels, that way you are sure you dont drive both half bridge fets simultaneously
i edited his schema in gimp
and yeah i dont like eagle symbols
Posted by renesis at 18:38 | permalink | 0 comments
you need something to keep the fets from overlapping during on states, those dividers maybe work but you gotta do something useful with the bases, prob just need two more resistors
maybe another transistor
here i will gimp you some shit
Posted by renesis at 17:40 | permalink | 0 comments
im in the middle of floating
checking
hmm no i dont think so
did you sim that shit?
fix the bases on the buffer/inverter BJT
you have a node trying to be 23.3V and 0.7V at the same time, i dont thing it blends man
i think you may have even blown them out
turns on and burns like two diode straight across 24V
Posted by renesis at 17:35 | permalink | 0 comments
shit so these UIT guys all wanna kill me
but i have this modified sport fighter ship in a station in their sector
its like a fast version of the fastest ship
i dunno where i got it but i can get mine back
someone just blew up my ragnarok thing with triple guass cannon and dual tracking gatling blaster
was like 3*(pewpewpewpewpew)
ok im gonna go get it and then flee like a bitch to the happy red sectors
Posted by renesis at 17:28 | permalink | 0 comments
dx^: iunno make it
OMG TRYING TO PLAY MMO SPACE GAME
http://www.darkertechnologies.com/image/dx_motor_pwm.jpg
with obvious errors
Posted by renesis at 16:22 | permalink | 0 comments
pfft
more fun watching than thinking
thinking more about little indoor greenhouse tents
Posted by renesis at 10:41 | permalink | 0 comments
yes its an old standard
so basically all there was was incandescent and HID (gas arc) lighting
oh and flouro tube
yeah
thats why its shaped like that, its a bandpass tuned to human vision spectrum
but yeah thats why green/yellow lighting is visually the most efficient
Posted by renesis at 10:26 | permalink | 0 comments
so color temp is related to the blue to phosphor ratio and how hard you drive the blue LED
very wide spectrum, lumens and color temps are still ok
yeah i guess it blocks some of the light
but its really good light, very wide spectrum, very 'white'
blue
prob different frequencies but its usually blue
yeah, probably different efficiency/cost
Posted by renesis at 10:19 | permalink | 0 comments
programax: http://ledsreview.com/blogs/Elie/17.php
is the article
oh ok its a plot of one watt lumen values vs frequency
perfect
so you you get a yellow LED its like 600 lumens, a deep red led with the same output would be 50 lumens
lumens and color temp are pretty useless for LEDs except for white
because white is like blue + phosphor
so the blue is peaky like LED light, but the phosphor makes this really wide spectrum output centered around yellow with a pretty decent amount of average power
and not very peaky at any color so its just like this warm white light
Posted by renesis at 10:14 | permalink | 0 comments
lumens is a bandpassed scale, its way retarded when you try and use it on red and blue LEDs
its meant for wide spectrum lighting
sec
anyway red and blue usually do optical output in mW
finding link, tho
http://ledsreview.com/upload/blog/a9e/lumen%20to%20watt%20resize.png
the dot is 1W optical output at that frequency
actually that seems backwards this guy sucks at plots
Posted by renesis at 10:09 | permalink | 0 comments
so like, you basically have two non linearities
the decrease in output vs current the the log sensitivity of your eyeballs
yeah check for 5mA
2mA is prob visible but in a bright room or outside itll be useless
yeah it might be some sort of current source input for a vref
probably
focus angle and diffuser have a lot to do with how bright they look too
heheheh
ftw
get a 1A LED with 3deg optics
practically a weapon
yeah because of the 3d space radiation
^3 makes sense but i swear ive seen ^2 and thought the same thing
so iunno
yeah but lumens is equalized for visible spectrum
sucks for LEDs but its marketable because target market is used to white lights with lumen ratings
Posted by renesis at 10:04 | permalink | 0 comments
10mA is fine for 20mA LEDs
it almost looks the same
it prob has protection
it hopefully has protection
its serious not a big difference, most 20mA LEDs are usable at 2mA
its a noticable difference, but barely
yeah it would suck outside or something, average LED
fucks everything up
yup
have to like put your eyeball on it and shield it from light
well if you only have to change one resistor to set current, try it at 10mA
if its enough, cool
i would try at 5mA first
efficiency goes down with more current
Posted by renesis at 09:59 | permalink | 0 comments
well youre way wrong
for 600 hours and for 120 hours
Posted by renesis at 07:29 | permalink | 0 comments
just so you dont spread that bullshit to other n00bs
power = watts
current = amps
so say 0.75KmAH?
just say AMPHOURS
ITS WRONG ANYWAY
okay your cells or whatever can do 750mA for 1 hour
yes
so to make it last longer, you need to draw less
and really no it means it can draw 750mA/20 for 20 hours, most likely
they usually test at lower current for way longer
so anyway, your answer for 120 hours needs to be a lower current
17:24 <@renesis> im pretty sure thats / not * but whatevers
Posted by renesis at 07:20 | permalink | 0 comments
this is boring
okay if something can do 750mA for one hour
and you want to stretch that amount of energy over 600 hours
dont you think it would be LESS by a factor of 600, not MORE?
if you can only do 750mA for 1 hour
how are you going to do 45A for 600 hours
dots
dude im not misunderstanding i assure you
looks 600 * 750mA is obviously wrong
get over it already, move on
120 * 750mA will be wrong too
first of all youre not talking about power so far youre talking about amps
second of all you need to learn how to keep your units in order and how to check your calculations for sanity before moving forward
youre about to be kicked
Posted by renesis at 07:15 | permalink | 0 comments
if you see a significant reduction, thats prob when the charger turns off and the rest is maybe idle waste
thats harder to figure out and less useful anyway since tha phone needs that charger, you might as well consider it part of the system
then it stops?
itll prob just charge at full speed then turn off
im pretty sure thats / not * but whatevers
sigh
the result is in AH
not mAH
your equation popped out 45000mAH
yeah
0.750A
no it isnt
.75A * 600H is 45AH
Posted by renesis at 07:10 | permalink | 0 comments
get a kill-o-watt
theyre $30 or something
sure, im guessing it has a charger thing
the kill-a-watt or kill-o-watt will keep track of how many watt hours it uses
its a little consumer true rms power meter
theyre not like lab accurate but theyre pretty good, definitely usable
oh
i would use the phone til it says low battery
reset the power meter, stick the phone on the charger
keep track of how much power it took to charge it and how long the phone lasts
do it a few times
yeah but you need to suck the battery out to check the charge time
also you can check draw current with your meter thing
to get an idea of how close to done charging it is
Posted by renesis at 07:05 | permalink | 0 comments
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCpC1cA-KbY
rework on that thing is epic
thats one of the early pre production units before they replaced the function labels with generic symbols
retail is like 40 buttons with the same symbol
MAP THAT MFKRS
so go there
hi
happens
Posted by renesis at 07:00 | permalink | 0 comments
you can solder any package manually
one of my first tasks at exjob was soldering kynar onto fine pitch QFP
never done it before, had it figured out in like 5 minutes
yeah
i think 20x was what worked for rework
yeah we had that
with the big long rectangular optics
and then two lenses in the eye pieces for focus
yeah 40x was neat but kinda sucked for rework
for inspection after its cool
but for doing work its like WAT WHERE IS THE SOLDERING TIP... OMG AAAAAAAAAHH oh shit its gone again
Posted by renesis at 06:55 | permalink | 0 comments
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